GGS Toughened Glass LCD Protectors for Alpha

Back in that first golden summer – well, it was late autumn going on winter, just the time to acquire a new DSLR when the days were short and the light awful – the Konica Minolta Dynax 7D arrived with a plastic screen protector in the box. A week later the first one had, after several recaptures, successfully jumped ship leaving the decks bare.
Two more 7D screen protectors later I finally sold the 7D, but only after it had spent three years in the studio where the worst that could happen was a soft landing on the carpet. My Alpha 100 never got a protector but never seemed to get scratches on the LCD. Then the Alpha 700 arrived, and with its lovely hard coated screen I got the same sense of durability you get from glass.
Wrong again! After six months, my Alpha 700 screen was covered in a fine patina of scratches with one slightly visible one. The coating was suffering and I bought a clip-on Sony hard plastic protector. Unlike the 7D model, this one stayed put, but over the next two years of use became a rather scruffy impediment to screen reviewing.
From then on, I decided to put screen protectors on all our Alphas. The Alpha 200 got a thin layer design for mobile phones. It did the job perfectly. The Alpha 350 got a much thicker plastic which felt almost rigid when it was applied, and left we wondering whether it would come off cleanly. The Alpha 900 got a slightly more flexible feeling sheet with a similar not too glossy, slightly uneven surface.
The Alpha 380 was given a Fujifilm LCD protector from the local shop (packs of three, with a cleaning cloth, suitable for all screens around 2.7 to 3 inches). It was still on it in perfect condition when sold. The same pack of foils provided instant cover for the Alpha 550 although its screen and surround really demanded a slightly larger protector.
Then, in February, two things happened. I order some kit from Poland and the on-line store (Foto-Tip) also had GGS toughened optical glass screen protectors. I’ve seen these labelled as Giottos Schott glass protectors and various other makes, generally at around £20 each in the UK, and had my doubts about the idea of fitting adhesive glass to my camera. Also, Alpha fit types were not all that visible in the UK. But Foto-Tip had Alpha fit glass protectors for the A700, A900, A350 and even the A550 – all the Alphas we are currently using.

They were well under £10 each including postage – cheaper than plastic clip-on protectors, a bit more than most peel off films (which also tend to come in packs of two to three, though this is rarely made clear when advertised). So I ordered the entire set. You can see them above.
2018 update: You can find new GGS Larmor screen protectors on Amazon UK or WEX Photo Visual as well on eBay. B&H have plenty of other brands and types but not this.
Before trying anything, I examined the screens and checked their reputation on-line. It seems that they consist of much the same laminated glass and polymer film sandwich which forms the hardened glass for professional Canon LCDs, and that the adhesive is an elastic optically clear gel made by 3M and very similar to that now being used for the intermediate layers in LCD assembly.
In other words, adding this would add a layer – but to the same standards as normal glass-faced LCD, without the superior coating found in a camera like the Canon EOS 7D.
Which camera to treat first came about when the second thing happened – the plastic protector foil on the Alpha 550 must have come loose on a corner, stuck to my jacket and pulled off. I returned from shooting outdoors to find the screen no longer protected, and the camera had been swinging around with zips, straps, other cameras and all kinds of scratch hazards. It was still perfect, fortunately.
Fitting the GGS to the Alpha 550
Using a microfibre cloth, I cleaned the 550 screen very carefully and followed the simple instructions. I left the top plastic protector in place, but they recommend you remove this before fitting as it makes alignment easier. Every GGS protector has a neat black printed edge frame with the camera name. This helps with handling, as if you do get a tiny edge of finger touching the adhesive gel, any resulting mark is hidden behind the black surround.

The Alpha 550 screen surface is slightly recessed. This helped greatly with the exact alignment of the very large cover glass, which goes beyond the image area of the screen and covers all the original plastic face of the panel. There is a shaped edge to match the indent in the rectangle, and a hole in the black frame for the activity light to show.

Alignment was very easy indeed with the rigid screen – far more so than with flexible foils. The adhesion was instant, and perfect, without a single bubble. Unlike a foil, this optically plane sheet doesn’t trap air and even if you did get a dust speck in the sandwich, the gel glue surrounds it without an air pocket.
The thickness of the glass leaves the screen now slightly raised, not slighly sunk, but the edge is beautifully ground and polished so that there is no question of a sharp encounter with your nose or hands. The old foil protector had never reallty been totally clear and was always visible; the GGS protector, though lacking a multilayer coating, improves visibility in daylight compared to a plastic protector.

The perfect flatness of the glass and perfect fit to the camera make a very rewarding finished job. Does it void the warranty? Will it ever be removable? Will the 3M glue layer go yellow with age, or harden and lose contact? Will the screen crack if hit – or will the extra layer stiffen the overall assembly and reduce the risk of damage?
It’s such a permanent-looking and feeling job that I may never find out. GGS say the screen may need to be gently heated, and eased off using a scalpel blade.
2018 update: the latest GGS, Afunta, Vello and similar glass protectors use a silicon adhesive which is even better for fixing, but allows removal with just a fingernail to lift a screen corner.
The other Alphas
The Alpha 700 had a patinated LCD – six months of unprotected use. Careful cleaning minimised this. The GGS glass screen fits neatly, with its whole thickness adding to the screen which starts flush with the camera. The edge, again, does not feel likely to cut or injure but it becomes the ‘hardest’ edge on the camera. Surprisingly, the adhesive gel seems to remove any the visible blotchiness of the hard coating along with the fine scratches. The single most visible small mark on the screen remains just visible.
While the added glass layer can not improve reflections or viewing conditions, it beats the clip-on plastic shield through which everything was diffused before. The Sony name at the bottom of the screen is now hidden, but can be glimpsed refracted through the clear edge of the protector which sits proud of the surface.
Much the same applies to the Alpha 900, but the screen is slightly recessed (more like the A550) to start with and is changed to having a slightly proud edge once the glass is fitted. It is a bit neater than the A700. It’s recessed just enough to hide the Sony name at the bottom of the screen fully, it can’t be spotted through the side of the glass thickness.
Finally, the Alpha 350 has a thick plastic LCD protector as its outer layer and this stands well proud of the surround. My thought, which I still don’t dismiss entirely, is that this sheet looks as if it could be removed and replaced with the GGS glass. But I was not going to attack my Alpha 350 with a scalpel to find out. If you had a 350 with a cracked cover sheet, it could be worth trying.
With the GGS glass added, the 350 has a pretty ‘high build’ screen – the glass increases the thickness of it by about 50%. It is already pushed into your face compared to the A550, or any other Alpha, with the viewfinder eyepiece too far forward. The extra 0.3mm or whatever it is (I have not measured it) is just a little more ergonomic negativeness. But the edge still feels safe not sharp, the screen assembly appears to be given added rigidity, and I’m happy that this is a good permanent protection for an exposed and vulnerable LCD cover surface.
Update: two months after this post was written the NEX mirrorless range was launched, and I visited Croatia to be one of the first journalists to use the system – reported here. We transcribed the launch presentation too. But after less than a year, the rear LCD screens of NEX models were showing signs of serious deterioration. I decided to risk my camera after studying how the screen was made, and removed the top layer. The GGS (actually a JYY branded version) screen protector turned out to be able to replace the worn original plastic top layer easily and I wrote about this in April 2011, sparking off hundreds of YouTubers and bloggers to follow our lead.
And…
At the same time, I was fitting my Nikon D5000 with a Delkin Silicon Skin. I just fancied giving my ‘car camera’ a bit of extra protection, and maybe some damping for better video sound. The silicon skin comes with a couple of screen protector foils.
Despite the LCD of this camera being kept face-to-camera (concealed) all the time, and rarely used except for video shooting, my careful cleaning and dusting did not prevent several dust spots and bubbles with the first protector foil. So I removed it, cleaned again, and fitted the second. Still one bubble – and it won’t go away!
That is one very big benefit of these GGS glass protectors. They don’t get bubbles, they are easily fitted with perfect straight alignment, and after a day’s use and handling I have found a quick polish restores a perfect surface. Hopefully, they will resist scratching for years not months, and never need to be prised off their host bodies.
2018 update: you can read my post about the 5th generation GGS Larmor product here.
– David Kilpatrick

Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM

Tamron’s 18-250mm lens – later adopted by Sony – was so good that it really takes some effort to beat it. Sigma has put that effort in, but the cost is a very much larger and heavier lens. If all you got was some better performance, it might not be all that exciting. But you get potentially superior anti-shake through its built-in OS, and faster focusing with HSM, the Sigma equivalent of SSM. And you can buy it for under $430, and it works fine on the NEX A-mount adaptor for stabilised videos too – with some degree of autofocus tracking during filming.
Continue reading »

The Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 EX DG HSM Macro II

SIGMA redesigned their 70-200mm not long ago to change the EX version to DG, introducing new coatings which greatly improved microcontrast and eliminated digital camera sensor reflections. In 2008, this was further upgraded to the Macro II model with HSM sonic motor focusing, a new optical design capable of focusing down to 1 metre distance. In 2009 this became available, along with matched HSM-compatible 2X and 1.4X converters, for the Sony Alpha mount.
Continue reading »

Tamron's new 60mm f/2 1:1 macro

Tamron Co., Ltd (Mr. Morio Ono, President), a comprehensive manufacturer of optical products with its head office in Saitama City, has announced the development of the SP AF60mm F/2.0 Di II LD (IF) MACRO 1:1 (Model G005), a life-size macro lens designed exclusively for digital SLR cameras with APS-C size image sensors* that offers a fast maximum aperture of F/2.0. (Text here is directly from their press announcement).
Continue reading »

Expodisc white balance with the KM Dynax 5D

The custom white balance function on the Konica Minolta Dynax 5D could not be quicker to use; turn the left hand top dial to the custom symbol, press the button in the centre of the dial, press the shutter after aiming the camera at your white or grey target. Custom WB is now set until changed with a new reading, or returned to fixed or Auto WB.
Continue reading »

Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Tele-Macro LD Di

Our cover photo for the Spring 2008 issue of Photoworld was taken with a Tamron 70-300mm zoom costing less than £120 from most larger retailers or internet shops. The reputation of the lens meant we had to take a look at it, because the current choice in the Sony range is limited to one ‘kit’ 75-300mm costing £179, and the new 70-300mm G SSM lens costing £600.

Photoworld Spring 2008 cover

The Minolta 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 APO (D) was one of the well-respected lenses not continued into the Sony line, possibly because it is thought to be a model designed for Minolta by Tokina just as the 100-400mm was. Sony part-owns Tamron, and Tokina is part of Hoya which now owns Pentax. Though all the lens makers source components and special types of glass from each other, the facilities which built the 100-300mm may not have been available when Sony took over.

The big question is why Sony did not opt for the 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Tamron Di lens instead of continuing the lower aperture 75-300mm. It would presumably have sold for about the same price in Sony guise.

The Tamron is a fairly unique design. It has a separate macro range, accessed by pushing a switch when you are between 180mm and 300mm zoom, and at minimum focus. You can not engage the macro range until you have these conditions met. Once you are in macro mode, the zoom is limited from 180-300mm, but the entire focus range is enabled from 0.95m to infinity with autofocus. It is a slow focusing lens and like other Tamrons with low gearing to drive the AF, appears to be very accurate on all the Dynax bodies.

This lens is of course suitable for film bodies, and unlike the new 70-300mm G SSM, it will work on models like the Dynax 9 unmodified, Dynax 800si, 7xi, 7000 and so on. Many owners have functioning film bodies of an older date and the move to SSM locks these out of AF functionality with all bodies prior to the 1999 Dynax 7.

This is a full aperture image detail – the bright reflected spots show how the aberrations surround or flare out from a sharp core image, which contains very fine detail – Alpha 350 original in-camera JPEG clip

The lens uses LD (Low Dispersion) elements, but it is not apochromatic and at full aperture displays some visible aberrations especially surrounding sharply focused light details. The image ‘core’ remains very crisp behind this veil of secondary imaging, and it only takes a little stopping down to tidy up the results. Our Bengal tiger cub (one of triplets born in the crocodile animal rescue park near Ingenio, Gran Canaria) was caught in movement, at full aperture, and despite the overlay of softness you can pick out eyelash-level detail on the 14.2 megapixel Alpha 350 image.

Here is the very next shot on the card – a 100 per cent clip of a zero sharpening, no NR, no processing ACR raw conversion from a shot taken fairly close to an alligator, f/9 and 130mm. The lack of colour fringes on the bright highlights is impressive.

Please remember what a 100 per cent clip from a non-sharpened 14 megapixel file actually is. Yes, I can make a 600 x 400 web image which looks sharper than this but making a 4952 x 3056 image at this sharpness with any USM – a five foot wide overall image at normal screen resolution – really tests any lens.

Zoom and apertures

You may have been reading the last article about kit zooms and note the graph showing that with cheaper lenses the aperture is likely to be cut early on in the zoom range. You might assume that £120-worth of Tamron would prove no different. You would be wrong, and this is one of the unique aspects of the lens.

The Tamron holds its maximum f/4 all the way from 70mm to 135mm, making it a full stop faster in this range than, for example, the 16-105mm SAL. It takes the same filter size and despite extending to 300mm, uses a single barrel tube and weighs only 435g. The aperture drops to f/4.5 between 135mm and 210mm. Even this is impressive; it’s as fast as the CZ 16-80mm at 80mm, all the way to 210mm.

Finally, at 210mm it does get cut to ƒ5 and it only becomes f/5.6 in the last 20mm of focal length, between 280mm and 300mm. The SAL 75-300mm becomes f/5 at 90mm andf/5.6 at just 125mm – the penalty for squeezing into a 55mm filter thread.

Even the SAL 70-300mm SSM G series lens is only f/4.5 from 70 to a mere 85mm, from then on it is f/5, and at 135mm it drops to f/5.6 all the way to 300mm. The Tamron is 2/3rds of a stop faster throughout most of its range on paper. In practice, we found that either f/5.6 on the Sony SSM is as fast as f/5 on the Tamron (due to coatings), or the Tamron is more optimistic in reporting its apertures!

Minimum focus

The Tamron 70-300mm manages a repro ratio of 1:2 – half life size on the sensor. That means a subject just 2″/50mm wide fills the entire frame (3″/75mm wide for full frame or film cameras). In Sony’s terminology, that is a 0.50X magnification at closest focus and 300mm setting. If you shoot macro on film right now, buying a digital body and this lens would give you the equivalent of your 1:1.5 mark on your macro lens.

No Sony or recent Minolta/KM zoom whether standard, tele or superzoom range offers better than 0.29X. It also stops down to a rather staggering f/45 at 300mm, not advised as sharpness suffers but potentially useful for macro work.

A comparison

We found the 70-300mm to be a fair match for our discontinued 100-300mm APO (D) overall. wider in aperture, and much better for small subjects. The 100-300mm’s repro ratio is just 0.25X, at 1.5m. It is f/4.5 as early as 120mm and f/5.6 from 150mm to 300mm.

Both lenses have solid metal mounts; both have eight contacts for full D specification; the 100-300mm doesn’t go down to 70mm, and it weighs 50g more.

The Tamron can be recommended as a bargain performer all round, ideal for anyone on a budget wanting a travel and general tele zoom with a very fast maximum aperture compared to other offerings.

– David Kilpatrick


1 2 3 4 5